Cold waving process



Nov. 14, 1950 w, B, SEMCO 2,529,886

COLD WAVING PROCESS Filed Feb. 5. 1950 ,mpreynaded @iwf/MP6,

/NVENTo/Q Patented Nev'. '14, 195o UNITED STA'IES PATENT OFFICE COLD wAvlNG PROCESS William B. Semco, Los Angeles, Calif., assignor to Artistic Beauty Products Company, Los Angeles, Calif., a corporation of California Application February 3, 195i), Serial No. 142,197

particularly to the type of waving process known as cold waving, The generalobject of the invention is to minimize uncertainty of result in cold waving treatments.

The usual cold wave treatment consists basically in the application to the hair of a solution of thioglycollic acid (usually in the form of an acid salt-the ammonium or sodium salt of thioglycollic acid) together with free ammonia, water, various clouding or emulsifying agents, perfume, color, etc., then winding thehair on rods or curlers, allowing the hair to process (soften) under the action of the acid, and then neutralizing the acid by rinsing off the waving compound and drenching the hair withA a dilute solution of an oxidizing agent such as potassium bromate, sodium perborate, hydrogen peroxide, or sodium hypochlorite. Such substances, though known in the trade as neutralizers, actually perform their function by an oxidation of the waving compound, with an incidental oxidation, to some extent, of the surface of the hair itself. This is. of course, an undesired attendant effect, and should be minimized as much as possible. Sodium hypochlorite is an alkaline substance, and after the neutralizing step there is a distinct pH on the alkaline side. However, beauty operators have a great deal of difficulty in producing perfect waves, and have many failures due to the fact that they have had no Way of telling when the wave is completely neutralized. An unsuccessful wave results primarily from failure to attain complete oxidation of the thioglycollic waving compound throughout. If the neutralizing process is incomplete, i. e., if any amount whatsoever of the thioglycollic waving compound remains in the hair, the hair will slowly relax and straighten out. In many cases an operator will pour neutralizing solution 1o claims. (c1. 13a-.7)

through the hair for many minutes and still can not be sure that complete neutralization is being attained.

With the foregoing in mind, an object of my invention is to provide a cold waving process utilizing an indicator for infallibly indicating the presence of thioglycollic acid and the ammonium and sodium salts of such acid, but inert in the presence of any other hair waving compounds. That is to say, the invention contemplates the utilization of an indicator that will be activated by either thioglycollic acid (or a thioglycollic acid salt) but not by any other cold waving substance, so that its activation may be taken as an indication of the continued presence in the 2 v e hair, of vestiges of` the cold waving solution. The invention further contemplates the continued application of the oxidizing solution as long as'an indication of the presence of the waving compound is obtained.

A further object is to provide an improved cold waving process in which the continued application of neutralizer may be and preferably is localized to those areas where the continued presence of cold waving compound is positively indicated, in order to conserve the neutralizer solution and save the hair from any unnecessary exposure to the neutralize'r.` Under present practice of operators who aim to attain perfection in the complete neutralization of the waving compound, a great excessl of neutralizer is commonly applied, blindly, in a blanket drenching of all the hair, in order to insure adequate neutralization" of each minute area thereof.

A further object is to provide an indicator which may be used with utmost ease and simplicity and which provides an indication that is entirely obvious, unmistakable, and highly noticeable. To this end, the invention contemplates a device that indicates by undergoing a vivid color change, in the form of an extremely inex* pensive article such as a small pad of absorbent paper or the like.

A further object is to provide an indicator compound that is sensitive to the presence of thioglycollic cold waving compound to such an extent that a dilution to the extent of one part `in one thousand will be detected so that the neutralizing may be carried to the point where the last infinitesimal remaining portions of cold waving solution are neutralized.

Other objects will become apparent in the ensuing specication and appended drawings in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an indicator device embodying one form of the invention; and

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of an indicator device embodying another form of the invention.

The above stated objects, I nd, can be attained by utilizing, as an indicator, a pad of absorbent material, as indicated at 3 in Fig. 1, such as a small sheet of fabric, paper, or a pad or body of fibrous or other absorbent material impregnated with a solution of a chemical -compound selected from the group which includes:

1. sodium nitroferricyanide,

2. potassium nitroferricyanide,

3. lithium nitroferricyanide,

4. Any of the soluble salts of iron, such as ferric chloride,

5. Other chemicals that rapidly acquire vivid color in the presence of thioglycollic acid compounds.

An inexpensive and therefore preferred material for the absorbent sheet is white porous paper having considerable Wet strength which is for example, equivalent to that of filter paper. The selected active substance, e. g., sodium nitroferricyanide, is applied to the paper by soaking the latter in a solution of the compound and then drying it.

When in an unactivated state, the compound is almost colorless and the impregnated paper has a tan color. In the practice of the process, the beauty operator, after having applied the waving compound, wound the hair on rods, and allowed it to process in the customary manner, subjects the hair to a usual amount of rinsing and then drenches it with neutralizer solution to an extent which is estimated to be approximately adequate for "neutralizing the remain ing waving solution. While the hair is still damp, the operator takes a piece of the impregnated indicator paper and passes it over all areas of the hair in succession, with a light brushing contact suiiicient to subject the active chemical in the paper to the action of any traces of thioglycollic acid (or its ammonium or sodium salt) that may be encountered. In response to contact with any of these substances, the indicator will change to a purplish or reddish color. The pieces of paper may be in any shape, e. g., square, round) ctc.

Wherever the indicatorr paper gives indication of the presence of cold waving compound, the operator applies a small additional quantity of neutralizer. The additional application may be, and preferably is confined to the area Where the presence of Waving compound has been discovered, thus conserving the neutralizer and avoiding unnecessary exposure of neutralized areas to the deteriorating effect of the oxidizing agent.

As an alternative to the step just described, the invention contemplates the partial impregnation of small strips of paper, as indicated at 4 in Fig. 2, with segregated areas of the indicator compound, in the form of a design which may comprise stripes, geometrical figures, letters, or other designs, as indicated at 5, such strips being ofthe proper shape and dimensions to function as end papers. The term end papers, as commonly used by beauticians, designates small paper strips that are wound about the tips of hair strands, to confine the hair tips and thereby facilitate the winding of the hair on curlers. When the end papers of my invention are wound around the hair strands, they will immediately indicate the presence of any traces of Waving compound by showing lines or other designs corresponding to the areas of impregnation.

The essential characteristic of the active compound is that it remain inert in the presence of any other chemical compound that might -be present in the hair (e. g., soap, any of the oxidizing compounds, or minerals, such as calcium, that may be present in the water forming the Vehicle for the solutions) but become activated -by any minute quantity of thioglycollic acid or f itsammonium or sodium salt.

The indicator pads are prepared by impregnating them with a solution of one of the above identified indicator substances in water, in the volumetric ratio of approximately ten percent of the indicator substance to ninety percent water, and allowing the pads to dry.

I iind that some improvement in the eiectiveness of the indication is obtained by adding a very small proportion of sodium hydroxide or other alkali such as potassium hydroxide to the impregnating solution. A suitable proportion is approximately one half of one percent of the Sodium hydroxide to approximately ten percent `dicator substance.

nitroferricyanide to approximately eighty nine and one-half percent water, by volume.

Other indicator substances can be employed. For example, uranium acetate and other soluble uranium salts will develop a brilliant orange color in the presence of thioglycollic acid or its ammonium or sodium salt. The important characteristic is, in each case, that the indicator, in the presence of the cold waving compound, develop a very noticeable color change, but remain inert in the presence of other compounds (such as, for example, the substances used in hot waving processes, including ammonia).

The pad, by its absorbent characteristic, functions to absorb enough of the cold waving solution to effect the desired reaction with the in- Thus the absorbent quality of the pad is an essential characteristic, in addition to its being in the form of an extremely inexpensive article, such as, for example, a small square or disc of filter paper.

The following are given as examples of solutions that may be employed for impregnating the pad:

Example I Per cent Sodium nitroferricyanide 10 Water Example II Per cent Potassium nitroferricyanide 10 Water 90 Example III Per cent Lithium nitroferricyanide 10 Water 90 Example IV Per cent Ferrie chloride 10 Water 90 Example V Per cent Sodium nitroferricyanide l0 Sodium hydroxide 1/2 Water 891/2 Example VI Per cent Potassium nitroferricyanide 10 Sodium hydroxide 1/2 Water 89% Example VII C Per cent Lithium nitroferricyanide 10 Sodium hydroxide 1/2 Water 891/2 Example VIII Per cent Ferric chloride 10 Sodium hydroxide 1/2 Water 89-1/2 Example IX Per cent Sodium nitroferricyanide Potassium hydroxide l/ Water 891/2 Example X Per cent Uranium acetate 10 Water 90 Example XI Per cent Uranium acetate 10 Sodium hydroxide 1/2 Water 89l/2 It will be understood that the neutralizing step may be eiected through the use of any of a large number of oxidizing agents, for example: potassium or sodium bromate; sodium perborate; potassium or sodium iodate; sodium hypochlorite, hydrogen peroxide; and others.

I claim:

l. Steps in a cold waving process in which a waving compound such as ammonium or sodium thioglycollate or thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair, the hair allowed to process and subsequently treated with an agent for neutralizing the effect of any remaining Waving compound, including the step of subsequently testing for the presence of traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair while still wet, with a body having, at its surface a substance adapted to chemically react with the cold waving compound in a manner to give a clear indication of the presence of said traces of cold waving compound.

2. Steps in a cold waving process in which a waving compound such as ammonium or sodium thioglycollate or thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair, the hair allowed to process and subsequently treated with an oxdizing agent for neutralizing the effect of any remaining waving compound, including the step of subsequently testing for the presence of traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair while still wet, with a body having, at its surface, a substance adapted to chemically react with the cold waving compound in a manner to give a. clear indication of the presence of said traces of cold waving compound by a contrasting color change but remaining unaffected by any other substance thaty may be present in the hair.

3. Steps in a cold waving process in which a cold waving compound such as ammonium or sodium thioglycollate or thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair, the hair allowedto process, andv subsequently treated with an oxidizing agent for neutralizing the eilect of any remaining cold waving compound, including the step of subsequently testing for the presence of traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair while -still wet, with a body having, at its surface, a. substance adapted to chemically react with the cold waving compound in a manner to give a clear indication of the presence of said traces of cold waving compound but remaining unaffected by any other substance that may be present in the hair and then further treatingthe hair to complete the neutralizing operation.

4. Steps in a cold waving process in which a cold waving compound such as ammonium or sodium thioglycollate or thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair, the hair allowed to process,

and subsequently treated with fan oxidizing agent for neutralizing th effect of any remaining cold waving compound, including the step of subsequently testing for the presence of traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair while still wet, with a body having, at its surface, a substance adapted to chemically react with the cold waving compound in a manner to give a clear color change indication of the presencel of said traces of waving compound but remaining unaffected by any other substance that may be present in the hair and then locally applying additional neutralizing agent in the areas where the presence of cold waving compound has been detected.

5. Steps in a cold waving process in which a cold waving compound such as ammonium or sodium thioglycollate or thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair, the hair allowed to process, and subsequently treated with an oxidizing agent for neutralizing the effect of any remaining cold waving compound, including the step 'of subsequently testing for the presence of traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair while still wet, with a small absorbent pad impregnated with a chemical adapted to undergo a readily discernible color change only in the presence of the cold waving compound and any of its ingredients.

6. Steps in a cold waving process in which a cold waving compound such as ammonium or sodium thioglycollate orthioglycollic acid is applied to the hair, the hair allowed to process. and subsequently treated with an oxidizing agent for neutralizing the eiect of any remaining cold waving compound, including the step of subsequently testing for the presence of traces of the cold waving compound by rubbing against the hair, while still wet, a series of ab sorbent -pads impregnated with a chemical adapted to undergo a readily discernible color change only in the presence of the cold waving compound and any of its ingredients and locally applying additional neutralizing" agent to those areas of the hair where the traces of waving compound have been detected.

'7. Steps in the process of cold waving hair in which a cold waving compound selected from the group including sodium and ammonium thioglycollate and thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair to process it, the hair is then wound.

on curlers and allowed to cure, and the hair is subsequently rinsed to remove the bulk of the waving compound and then subjected to the oxidizing effect of an oxidizing agent to neutralize the remaining cold waving compound: including the further steps of testing the hair for vestigial traces of the cold waving com,- pound by contacting the hair with a body having, at its surface, an indicator substance selected from the group including ferric chloride and other soluble ferric salts; adapted to change color'only in the presence of said cold waving compound and its active ingredients, then further treating the hair with the oxidizing agent to neutralize said vestigial traces.

8. .Steps in the process of cold waving hair in which a cold waving compound selected from the group including sodium and ammonium thioglycollate and thioglycollic acid is applied to the hair to process it, the hair is then wound on curlers and allowed to process, and the hair is subsequently rinsed to remove the bulk of the cold waving compound and then subjected to the oxidizing effect of an oxidizing solution; including the further steps of testing the hair for vestigial traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair with a body having, at its surface, an indicator substance consisting in uranium acetate, adapted to change color only in the presence of said cold waving compound and its active ingredients, then further treating the hair with the oxidizing agent to neutralize said vestigial traces.

9. Steps in the process of cold waving hair in which a waving compound selected from the group including sodium and ammonium thioglycollate and thioglycollic acid is lapplied to the hair to soften it, the hair is then wound on curlers and allowed to process, and the hair is subsequently rinsed to remove the bulk of the waving compound and then subjected to the oxidizing eiect of an oxidizing agent to neutraiize" the remaining cold wavingcompound:

Aincluding the further steps of testing the hair for vestigial traces of the cold waving compound by contacting the hair with a body having, at its surface, an indicator substance selected from the group including the sodium. potassium and lithium nitroferricyanides, then further treat- 8 ing the hair with the oxidizing agent to neutralize said vestigia] traces.

10. The process dened in claim 9, wherein said further treatment with the oxidizing agent is localized to the areas where said vestigial traces have been detected.

WILLIAM B. SEMCO.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the ille of this patent:

`UNITED STATES PATENTS o Name Date Dieterich Jan. 14, 1902 OTHER REFERENCES Number 

1. STEPS IN A COLD WAVING PROCESS IN WHICH A WAVING COMPOUND SUCH AS AMMONIUM OR SODIUM THIOGLYCOLLATE OR THIOGLYCOLLIC ACID IS APPLIED TO THE HAIR, THE HAIR ALLOWED TO PROCESS AND SUBSEQUENTLY TREATED WITH AN AGENT FOR "NEUTRALIZING" THE EFFECT OF ANY REMAINING WAVING COMPOUND, INCLUDING THE STEP OF SUBSEQUENTLY TESTING FOR THE PRESENCE OF TRACES OF THE COLD WAVING COMPOUND BY CONTACTING THE HAIR WHILE STILL WET, WITH A BODY HAVING, AT ITS SURFACE A SUBSTANCE ADAPTED TO CHEMICALLY REACT WITH THE COLD WAVING COMPOUND IN A MANNER TO GIVE A CLEAR INDICATION OF THE PRESENCE OF SAID TRACES OF COLD WAVING COMPOUND. 